Preparing Your Exterior for a Major Storm
A big storm rewards the work you do before it arrives. This ground-level checklist helps you secure, clear and check the outside of your home safely, while there is still time.

Preparing for a major storm is three passes done from the ground while it is still calm: secure anything wind can lift or throw, clear gutters, downspouts and drains so heavy rain can escape, and scan the roof edge and gutters from the ground for anything already loose. Bring in outdoor items, confirm runoff drains away from the foundation, and stop all outdoor work once wind and rain arrive. Leave roof access, tall-ladder tasks and tree work to a professional beforehand.
The gap between a stressful storm cleanup and a manageable one is usually an hour or two of work done beforehand, while the yard is still calm enough to move around safely. A major storm punishes whatever you leave loose and rewards whatever you tie down, and it gives you a clear, non-negotiable window in which to act: the stretch of forecast quiet before the wind arrives. The trick is to use that window with a plan rather than improvise as the sky darkens.
The plan has a shape worth memorizing, because it doubles as a priority order when time is short. Secure, then clear, then check. You deal first with the things wind can throw, next with the paths water needs, and last with the roof edge you can only observe. Almost all of it happens on solid ground, and the single rule that overrides everything else is timing: every task here stops the moment the storm actually arrives. Start as soon as a serious storm is in the forecast, and arrange anything requiring roof access, a tall ladder, or tree work with a professional well in advance, since those are exactly the jobs you must not attempt in rising weather.
First pass: take away the wind's ammunition
High wind does most of its damage with objects it picks up, so the first and most valuable pass is simply removing them. Walk the entire property, not just the patio, and bring in or firmly anchor the obvious offenders, patio furniture, umbrellas, grills, and planters. Stow garden tools, sports equipment, toys, and decorations in a garage or shed. Secure the trash and recycling bins, which blow over and travel a startling distance in a gust. Anything too large to move should be laid flat or tied down, and items like trampolines are worth disassembling if you have the time. Finish by closing and latching gates, shed doors, and anything else that could swing and slam through the storm.
The mental test is easy: if wind could lift it, it can break a window or gouge the siding, and a single loose umbrella can do more damage than the rain.
Second pass: give the water somewhere to go
Heavy rain has to drain somewhere, and clogged drainage is what redirects it against the house. So the second pass opens the paths. Clear leaves and debris from the gutters and downspout outlets you can reach safely, and confirm the downspout extensions are in place and aiming water well away from the foundation. Clear the yard drains, window wells, and any grates so runoff can escape, and sweep debris away from the low spots and doorways where water tends to collect. Check, too, that the grade around the house still directs water away rather than toward it.
Focus on what you can reach and can actually see flowing; a gutter that needs roof access or a tall ladder is a job to arrange ahead of time, not a reason to climb as the weather turns. If your gutters need more than a quick clear, work through the fall gutter and downspout checklist in advance, and use how to inspect your gutters to confirm they can handle a heavy load.
Third pass: read the roof edge from the yard
The last pass is pure observation, and it tells you what is already vulnerable before the wind gets a chance to test it. With binoculars, scan the shingle edge for anything missing, lifted, or curled, and sight down each gutter run for sagging or loose sections that wind and water could finish off. Note any gutter that has separated from the fascia or pulled away from the wall, and look for debris caught on the roof or lodged in the valleys that a downpour could dislodge. Do not climb up for a closer look; if the edge looks damaged, that is a call to a roofing professional before the storm, not a ladder to fetch.
The tree question, from the ground only
Trees are among the leading causes of storm damage, and the prep here is emphatically observation rather than climbing. From the ground, note any dead, cracked, or overhanging limbs near the roof, walls, or power lines, since high wind can bring them down. Clear fallen branches and loose yard debris that wind could throw against the house. Flag any large or high limb that needs cutting for a professional, well ahead of the storm, and keep clear of anything touching or near power lines, reporting it to the utility. Pre-storm pruning of large or high limbs is dangerous and time-sensitive; it is not a job to take on yourself as weather approaches. For managing trees near the house across the whole year, see exterior maintenance around trees.
The openings, and a few minutes indoors
A short pass at the openings protects the parts of the house wind and water target first. Close and latch all windows, doors, and storm shutters if you have them, and confirm the weatherstripping and thresholds are seated so wind-driven rain is less likely to find a way in. Move valuables and electronics away from windows and low areas that could take on water, and note any cracked or failing caulk around openings to reseal after the storm. If you can, park vehicles away from trees and under cover.
The hard stop, and what comes after
Everything above shares one condition: it gets done while conditions are calm. Prep attempted in rising wind and rain is rushed, and rushed outdoor work near ladders, wet surfaces, flying debris, and lightning is genuinely dangerous. Treat the storm's arrival as an absolute deadline, and set up the professional help, roof access, tall-ladder work, loose or damaged gutters, and tree pruning, early, precisely because those are the tasks that tempt people into risky last-minute climbs at the worst possible moment. From the ground you can spot and describe what needs attention, and that description alone helps a pro prioritize.
Once the weather turns, your work outdoors is finished. Go inside. After the storm has passed and conditions are safe again, walk the property with the post-storm exterior inspection checklist to document any damage. A calm, early prep pass paired with a careful after-the-fact inspection is far safer, and far cheaper, than improvising in the middle of a storm.
Frequently asked questions
How do I prepare my home's exterior for a major storm?
Work through it in three passes: secure anything wind can lift or throw, clear the paths water needs to drain, and check the roof edge and gutters from the ground for anything already loose. Do it while conditions are still calm and safe, not as the storm arrives. Most of this is ground-level work; leave roof access and tall-ladder tasks to a professional beforehand.
What should I do first when a storm is coming?
Start by securing loose outdoor items, since wind turns them into projectiles: furniture, grills, planters, umbrellas, bins, tools and toys. Bring in what you can and tie down or lay flat what you cannot. Then move to drainage, clearing gutters, downspouts and drains so heavy rain has somewhere to go. Doing this early leaves time to work calmly and safely.
How much storm prep can I do without climbing?
Nearly all of the useful work is at ground level: securing items, clearing reachable drains and downspout outlets, checking that runoff aims away from the house, and scanning the roof edge and gutters with binoculars. Anything that needs roof access or a tall ladder should be handled by a professional well before the storm, never in rising wind or rain.
Should I clean my gutters before a storm?
If they are clogged and you can clear the debris safely, yes, because a blocked gutter overflows in heavy rain and sends water behind it and against the foundation. Focus on what you can reach and reliably see is flowing. If clearing them requires roof access or a tall ladder, arrange it with a professional ahead of time rather than climbing as the weather turns.
What outdoor items are most likely to cause damage in high wind?
Lightweight and unanchored items are the biggest risk: patio furniture, umbrellas, grills, planters, trash and recycling bins, garden tools, sports equipment and decorations. Anything wind can lift can break a window or damage siding. Trampolines and large items need extra securing or disassembly. Walk the whole yard and stage items indoors, in a garage or shed, or firmly anchored.
What about trees and branches near the house?
From the ground, note dead, cracked or overhanging limbs near the roof, walls and power lines, since high wind can bring them down. Clear fallen branches and yard debris that wind could throw. Do not attempt tree work yourself before a storm; pruning large or high limbs is dangerous and time-sensitive, so flag it for a professional well ahead of severe weather.
Is it safe to keep prepping as the storm arrives?
No. Once wind and rain pick up, stop outdoor work and go inside. Ladders, wet surfaces, flying debris and lightning make last-minute exterior tasks genuinely dangerous. Finish securing and clearing while conditions are calm, and treat the arrival of the storm as your hard stop. Anything not done by then should wait for the after-the-storm inspection.